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Sydney
Snake Mite

United Kingdom
20 Posts

Posted - 28/03/2017 :  18:56:50  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Hi all, Sydney finally came out of his big sleep after 48hrs, first dinner with two pinkies, so worried about the aspen but all good, will stick with the separate tank in future.

Thanks all for advice,

speak soon

Dan

Edited by - Sydney on 28/03/2017 19:03:39
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ScalySituation
Fully Grown Corn

United Kingdom
5248 Posts

Posted - 28/03/2017 :  19:30:21  Show Profile  Visit ScalySituation's Homepage  Click to see ScalySituation's MSN Messenger address  Reply with Quote
:)

0.1.0 Normal corn (Sonny)
1.0.0 Butter motley corn (Sheldon)
0.1.0 Caramel Corn (Maggie)
0.1.0 Caramel motley corn (Echo)
1.0.0 Cat (Angus)
1 mealworm colony
RIP Skye x
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Kez
Hatchling

United Kingdom
369 Posts

Posted - 28/03/2017 :  22:50:27  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Great news, Dan and good boy, Sydney

0.1.0 - CB10 Creamsicle - Maisie
0.1.0 - CB10 Ultramel Motley - Smudge
0.1.0 - Rescue Greyhound - Becki
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Razee
Fully Grown Corn

United Kingdom
2450 Posts

Posted - 29/03/2017 :  09:47:37  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Don't worry too much about the aspen, it's only a problem if the snake is absolutely tiny and swallows a large, very sharp piece. Most of the time, even if the swallow a bit, they'd pass it no problem.

I was exactly like you when l first got Bazil ( she is my first snake ). I really had to feed her out of faunarium as she used to really roll the pinkie in the aspen, drag it backwards across the whole tank etc., and l was stressing so badly :-)

You might find that yours is a lovely, calm feeder, and will eat politely from a piece of paper without dragging the mice backwards through the bedding, in which case you could feed in his Viv. But don't worry too much, there are no hard and fast rules, it's what you find works best for both of you. You shouldn't handle the snake at least 48 hours after feeding, even better to leave them till they've pooped. But there's no problem moving snake from a feed box back to Viv, as long as the snake isn't massively stressed out.

0.1.0 late CB10 Carolina corn snake - Bazilishka
1.0.0 CB11 Abbots Okeetee- Little Twiddler
1.0.0 CB11 Hypo corn- Sebastianek
1.0.0. CB14 Butter Motley - Squidwood
1.0.0 dobbin
1.1.0 stable cats
0.1.0 house cat
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Sydney
Snake Mite

United Kingdom
20 Posts

Posted - 29/03/2017 :  19:37:07  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Hi Razee, haha yes a bit of a panicker, But really enjoying having him, sounds like Bazil likes dinner time. Sydney has not rolled yet with dinner, but still time. Sorry for all the questions, I fed him two pinkies last dinner time, do you think a fuzzy maybe a better idea?
Thanks Dan
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Razee
Fully Grown Corn

United Kingdom
2450 Posts

Posted - 31/03/2017 :  08:29:54  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
It depends on the size...there are 1 gram pinkies at smallest and 4 g pinkies as biggest ( and l've seen pinkies bigger than fuzzies! ). So, if you feed 2x 1 g pinkie, the snake only gets 2 g of food. If it's 2 massive pinkies, then the snake got 8 g - more food than if you feed a fuzzie!

Generally, if the food doesn't leave a bump when it settles in the stomach ( or only leaves a barely visible bump ) any more, and when the snakes eats it really fast, and the poops are tiny, it's time to up the food. There's a rough feeding guide in "stickies" on this forum, which says how much to feed, how often, to how heavy snake...but that's only approximate. You weigh your snake, and it will tell you what size of food it should be eating and how often...

You'd go from 1 pinkie to 2, then a fuzzy, then hopper, then small. But there's nothing stopping you giving a fuzzy and a pinkie, if the snake is due to move up from fuzzies, but there are no hoppers and the snake is too narrow to eat a small mouse, but needs more food, for example. Generally, you shouldn't feed any food that's wider than 1.5 x the thickness of the thickest part of the snake.

If you worry about going up a size, try to buy your mice from a pet shop that lets you choose the mice. Then you can select the biggest pinkie just before you move onto fuzzies, or the smallest fuzzies for the first feed on fuzzies. ( you can tell l am a right pain selecting mice for my snakes :-) ).

When you move your snake onto fuzzies, you will probably notice a growth spurt. The older the mouse, the more calcium they have ( so pinkies skeletons have hardly any, but once the mice are weaned, the calcium content is much better ). If yours is 8 months old, unless he is really tiny for his age, he should be ok to eat fuzzies already. :-)

0.1.0 late CB10 Carolina corn snake - Bazilishka
1.0.0 CB11 Abbots Okeetee- Little Twiddler
1.0.0 CB11 Hypo corn- Sebastianek
1.0.0. CB14 Butter Motley - Squidwood
1.0.0 dobbin
1.1.0 stable cats
0.1.0 house cat
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Sydney
Snake Mite

United Kingdom
20 Posts

Posted - 02/04/2017 :  16:40:31  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Hi i took your advice today down the reptile shop and chose my own fuzzie size, great tip thanks. Sydney eat it with ease, and has a nice little bump for a belly, yay!

I also bought a micro climate control, very tech! think its going to take me a long time to get my head round it, do you know if they are worth it? I had no idea how hot the heat mat was getting, he always stayed down the cool end alot?

Hope alls well

Thanks Dan
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Razee
Fully Grown Corn

United Kingdom
2450 Posts

Posted - 02/04/2017 :  21:42:12  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
What kind of thermostat do you have, ON/OFF or pulse? Generally, with any thermostat, the thermostat is plugged into the electric socket. Heat mat is plugged into thermostat, and then the thermostat probe goes straight on the heatmat - if the heatmat is in the vivarium. If you have faunarium ( or glass Viv ) with the heatmat underneath, the probe needs to go in the faunarium, on the floor, where the snake is. It's a good idea to put a digital thermometer probe right next to the thermostat probe ( you can always rubber band them together ) -so that you can check the temperature all the time.

Thermostats are really important, without them, any heater can get way too warm. Then the snake will not use it ( or will use it and get burned )- which means it has no warm side :-0 . Another good thing about thermostat is that it saves you lots of electricity.

For heatmat, pulse thermostats are the best, as they keep very stable temperature ( they reach the programmed temperature and then just keep sending small pulses of power to the mat, keeping it at exact temperature ). On/ off thermostats aren't that good,as there's quite a big swing in the temperature. This is because they reach the required temperature, then switch off. The heatmat s starts cooling, then when the ttemps goes down a degree or 2, the thermostat switches the mat on again, but by the time the mats heats up again, the temperature continues dropping for a short time. When it reaches the right temperature, it switches off again etc.

Of course, there are now digital thermostats ( l just got Microclimate Evi lite - brilliant! )

Nice to know you snakey has managed a fuzzy :-)



0.1.0 late CB10 Carolina corn snake - Bazilishka
1.0.0 CB11 Abbots Okeetee- Little Twiddler
1.0.0 CB11 Hypo corn- Sebastianek
1.0.0. CB14 Butter Motley - Squidwood
1.0.0 dobbin
1.1.0 stable cats
0.1.0 house cat
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Sydney
Snake Mite

United Kingdom
20 Posts

Posted - 04/04/2017 :  18:13:21  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
I bought same the one, however my wife and daughter were with me so I ended up with a Pink one! haha. I have also bought a 3 ft Viv, which I am going to use for a couple of years until he is ready for the 4 ft one!

The viv comes with a heat lamp, however I have a heatmat from his starter tank, what would you recomend to use for his new Viv?

Many thanks

Dan
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